Used Pool Table Buying Guide
How to Disassemble your Pool Table
How to Install Billiard Fabric
Used Pool Table Buying Guide
This page is intended to provide you with the basic information of what to be aware of before purchasing a used or pre-owned pool table.
SIZE: The following chart can help you determine the actual size. However, you must remember there are many variations to consider. For example the Brunswick 7’ table is smaller that all others and the size is actually1” less in width and 2” less in length. Coin-operated tables and many modern and commercial designs use a 7’ wide rail and the outside dimensions are 2” wider and 4” longer. Another “gotcha” is that most antique tables (built prior to 1950) use a 5” rail and in these cases the outside dimensions are 2” less in width and 4” less in length. When in doubt take a picture and email it to service@pooltablesplus.com and I will happily answer any questions you may have.
Table Size Play Area Dimensions Outside Dimensions
(Tip of cushion to tip of opposite cushion) (Based on 6” wide rails)
7’ 39” x 78” 51” x 90”
8’ 44” x 88” 56” x 100”
8+ (OS) 46” x 92” 58” x 104”
9’ 50” x 100” 62” x 112”
3 PIECE SLATE: Most pool tables use oversized slate which comes in three sections of varying thickness - ¾”, 7/8” and 1”. These slates can be framed or un-framed. Framed slate have 3” wood strips glued to the underside which can absorb and transmit vibrations and also serves as a substrate to which the cloth is stapled. It is essential to have framed slate if the cloth is to be professionally stretched for accurate play. Some pool tables use a slate pad to support an un-framed slate (see picture below). These tables are difficult to level and impossible to remain level because of a severe design flaws. STAY AWAY FROM THESE TABLES AT ALL COSTS.
1 PIECE SLATE: You will also find that some tables are made with under-sized one-piece of slate. This single piece of slate is not secured but rather floats inside the rails. These tables are very durable but do not play well and are extremely difficult to move. The slate typically weights 400 pounds and only two men can be used to move it up and down stairs. What makes matters worse is the fact that the body weights up to 500 pounds, is significantly larger than the slate and typically does not come apart for transport. If there are any 90 degree turns involved you should consider hiring a professional to remove and discard the table. It can be very difficult for an inexperienced person to determine if the table uses 1 or 3 pieces of slate. The table manufacturer name is very useful in determining slate type. Another method is for you to visualize three equal sections of slate and cut the cloth where they would meet up to see if there are any seams. When in doubt, take a picture and email it to service@pooltablesplus.com and I will gladly answer any questions you may have. Here is a typical one-piece slate table.
POOL TABLE SLATE: It is not uncommon for the slate to be damaged with chips, cracks and breaks. Sometimes it can be easily repaired and other times impossible. On cheaply made tables it is not uncommon for the slate to break in the corners where people may have sat. Since every table manufacturer uses their own unique slate pattern is can be cost prohibitive to replace the damaged slate. Take a good look under the table to check for cracks and then run your hand across the top, this may reveal cracks. Remember if the table is made with 3 pieces of slate and is improperly installed, you will feel a line where the slates meet up.
CLOTH: Although cloth in good condition can be taken off and re-used it is advisable to replace it. When cloth is professionally applied it is tightly stretched, stapled and fitted into the pockets and the excess is cut off. When cloth is re-used there is no excess cloth which results in loosely stretched cloth that negatively affects play and unsightly cuts in the cloth around the pockets. Replacing the cloth during a table move can cost up to $200 additional for high quality standard “fuzzy” billiard fabric and up to $350.00 for professional tournament grade “worsted” billiard fabric.
CUSHIONS: Are the rubber cushions hard with little to no bounce or loose and sagging? To check the rail rubber, firmly push the ball across the table and it should rebound off the rails three to four times. If this test fails it could cost up to $250.00 to replace the cushions as well as the expense to recover the table with billiard fabric.
ACCESSORIES: Does the table come with accessories? "Bridge, Balls, Brushes, Cover, Racks and Cue Sticks", if not, the accessory playing kits range from $100.00 to $400.00 or more
POCKETS: Leather pockets with nets to capture the balls can be dry rotted, brittle or ripped. Replacement costs can range from $150.00 to over $500.00. Plastic pockets could also be brittle or torn and can cost $50.00 to over $100 to replace.
HARDWARE: Underneath each of the six rails you will find 3 rail bolts per rail. Make sure these are intact. Do not buy a table that uses wood screws to hold the rails on. In addition, give the table my patented “butt” test. Stand at the head or foot of the table and give it a good bump with your butt. If the table shakes or wobbles it is indicative of a poor design and you should stay away.
Finally!! Do not pay for a table until your professional installer is present to evaluate the pool table and then and only then pay for the table with a check… NOT PAY WITH CASH… When in doubt, take a few pictures and email them to service@pooltablesplus.com and I will do my best to answer all your questions.
Special Note:
If you decide to purchasing a pool table from a private owner, have a professional installer, move and install the pool table.
How to Disassemble your Pool Table
Pool Table Disassembly
You should hire a professional to disassemble a pool table. Some people may want to do it on their own. This is for those people.
This is how to disassemble a pool table
I will try to make this as simple as possible for someone trying to move their pool table. I want to first recommend highly that you hire a professional to do this. This information is for those do-it-yourselfers who like to do everything regardless of the outcome. There are several different styles of construction for billiard tables. I won't list them all but I'll go over the most common.
Furniture Style Pool Tables
This is the most common style found in homes today. The first thing you'll do to disassemble this type of pool table is get a staple puller or flat head screw driver and remove the staples holding the pockets up from underneath. (Go ahead and get dirty and lay on your back for this, it will only make things easier. You should be careful of getting things in your eyes. Once you have pulled the staples out of the pocket straps, find the right size socket to pull the bolts out from the underside of the rails. There are usually three per rail. Once the bolts have come out the rails are able to come off. There is usually one of three ways to pull off the rails. 1. Each rail will slide out from the other individually. 2. There will be two horseshoe shaped sets of rails that connect on each of the two side pockets. 3. The six rails will be all connected underneath them. In all cases you will need to take special care to flip over the rails in order to remove the pocket bolts…it is not uncommon for amateurs to break one or more of the rails during this process. Be careful! Now that you have them upside down you can disconnect the pockets from the rails for transport.
Now you need to remove the felt from the table top. It will be either stapled or glued, or a combination of both, to the slate bed. If it is stapled you need to go around and remove each staple (a tedious process). A staple puller is easiest but a flat head and needle nose pliers will work. You might find a staple puller at home depot for less money. If the felt is glued, you can simply pull it off. Be careful of ripping the felt at the pocket areas. Sometimes they are stapled underneath even though they are glued. If you want your table to look good and play well, you should replace the felt at this time because it cannot be re-stretched and reapplied the second time around.
Next, you need to take the slate off the frame of the table. You need to pull the screws out of the top of the slate with a drill that has a screwdriver tip on it. (Usually Philips head) On many occasions you can't see the screw heads because they are covered with beeswax, plaster or epoxy. If it is beeswax, simply dig it out with a flat head screwdriver then remove the screws. If it has plaster/epoxy you should get a carbide drill bit and drill out the material, but don't drill so much that you wear down the head of the screw. Now get a flat head screwdriver and dig out the grooves for the screw head so that you screwdriver bit will fit in it without stripping the head. (Be very careful not to strip the screw head or you will add additional hours to your job) The slate should have up to 18 screws holding it down around it’s perimeter and along the center beam of the frame. After all screws are removed be very careful to beak the slate seams without breaking the slate itself. You can score the seam line with a utility knife and gently rock the slate to break the seam. You are now ready to remove each of the three sections of slate (up to 275 lbs each). Two strong men can carry these out to a truck and they can be carefully stacked one on top each other. Be careful that there aren't any staples on the bottom of the framed slate because it can scratch the piece of slate underneath it while sliding. Be sure to stay off bumpy roads.
Finally, you can now take off the legs from the frame/body of the table by removing all bolts and
nuts with a ratchet wrench. The body of the table may have to be disassembled if you are moving around 90 degree turns (this can be tricky). All components should be blanket wrapped and secured for transport.
Unfortunately, there are many other styles of pool tables including, interior-pocket, coin-operated, one-piece slate, antique and commercial. Each style has it’s a unique set of issues that needs to be understood in order to properly disassemble.
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